For the stay at home / non traveling executive aka land lubber, the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5034 (often referenced with the Double Moon phase) may be for you. If you are interested in the iconic IWC Calendar models, this is a masterstroke of horology. It features a robust 44.2mm gold case. Also, it houses IWC’s iconic perpetual calendar and dual-hemisphere moon phase, requiring only an adjustment via the crown. There are no leap year corrections required until the year 2100.
Why do I say this? You can wind it back in time. Imagine you set the wrong year. You a) have to wait for time to catch up, or b) take it in for a costly service. IWC will give you a one time get out of jail free card and reset the watch to the current time. While it is hardly a traveler’s watch, it remains one hell of a time piece to enjoy in your own time zone. For instance, it’s like a mechanical version of an iPhone clock and moon app with no batteries. Also, collectors value the distinctive IWC Calendar for its user-friendly features.
If you have a legacy IWC perpetual calendar running the iconic Kurt Klaus-designed movement (the vast majority of IWC perpetuals built between 1985 and 2025), no, you cannot rewind it. Turning the hands or crown backward on these legacy watches can severely damage the intricate calendar gear train. In this case, you will require an expensive trip to an IWC service center. For those considering the IWC Calendar in older models, be cautious with adjustments.
The Laidfactor: IWC has dummy proofed the perpetual calendar. To make the LF List, it also has to have value. Many watches are great deals on the used market and can hold their value. However, expect for the collectable Rolex sport stainless models that trade on the secondary market above retail, but we’ll get into that topic later. This is one area where the IWC Calendar stands out for collectors looking at retention and desirability.
New ProSet Models: If you have one of the newer IWC Perpetual Calendar models equipped with the ProSet movement (such as the Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar ProSet), yes, you can. These models allow you to adjust the day, date, month, year, and moon phase backward and forward using just the crown, without risking damage. That’s pretty cool. Now, you can take it traveling while you sit in your dark business class seat while landing. Squint to set the time, day, month, year, moon after an 11 hour flight. With the ProSet, the IWC Calendar goes modern and hassle-free.
https://www.iwc.com/us-en/watches-and-wonders/iwc-proset
https://press.iwc.com/iwc-relaunches-portugieser-perpetual-calendar-44-en
